quarta-feira, 13 de abril de 2011

Wine Report Bordeaux 2010 (Wine Spectator) 6ª parte: Pomerol

O crítico James Molesworth (Wine Spectator) está em Bordeaux fazendo as provas de barril dos vinhos da safra 2010, para determinar o caráter e a qualidade dos vinhos que, em breve, estarão disponíveis para a venda "en primeur". Como neste mercado quem compra primeiro os vinhos certos vai lucrar mais (e pagar menos), é muito interessante conhecer estas impressões iniciais, mesmo para os "pobres mortais" que queiram comprar apenas algumas garrafas isoladas.
A lista integral, com mais de 400 vinhos avaliados, foi dividida em "appellations" e está sendo publicada gradativamente. Anote os seus vinhos preferidos em qualidade e preço, para que, se tiver chance, possa adquirir algumas garrafas para beber no futuro.
Para quem já viu o vídeo que publiquei com as impressões de Steven Spurrier (Decanter), estes devem ser os Bordeaux mais concentrados da história...


CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR-PÉTRUS Pomerol 2010 Score: 96-99
This is so creamy and lush, with layers of red, black and purple fruits. Shows muscle on the finish, but the fruit is here in spades, with terrific polish. Very, very long, with power and freshness. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LE PIN Pomerol 2010 Score: 96-99
This is a stunning display of purity, with lush raspberry and boysenberry fruit, that never gets heady despite its obvious weight. Alluring spice and graphite notes flicker, but for now this is still exuberantly youthful and primal. And very, very long. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU TROTANOY Pomerol 2010 Score: 96-99
Extremely formidable from the start, with a wall of tannin-driven power that pushes the core of plum, fig and blackberry fruit to the background for now. Offers loads of flesh, with the tannic surge returning on the finish. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

VIEUX CHÂTEAU CERTAN Pomerol 2010 Score: 96-99
Super broad and muscular, with lots of dark fig, currant and chocolate notes. A smoky tobacco edge on the back end is starting to emerge, and this begins to gush linzer torte and cassis with air. A very big wine. One of the stars of the appellation in 2010. 86 percent Merlot, 8 percent Cabernet Franc and 6 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, almost the same as 2009. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU CERTAN DE MAY Pomerol 2010 Score: 95-98
Shows stunning depth and drive, with a deep well of blackberry and plum sauce and a lush structure. Superlong, with spice and anise echoing on. A tremendous young wine in the making. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU HOSANNA Pomerol 2010 Score: 95-98
Almost flashy, with stunning fruitcake, licorice, blueberry and plum sauce flavors. There's lots of definition already, with a gorgeous chocolate-filled finish. Merlot with 30 percent old-vine Cabernet Franc. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR Pomerol 2010 Score: 95-98
Almost gushing already, with cassis and blackberry fruit. Supersilky and refined, with an incredibly long, velvety finish. This has heft, but stays graceful. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LATOUR À POMEROL Pomerol 2010 Score: 95-98
This marries power and finesse, with a large core of smoldering fig and blackberry fruit, offset by black tea and aromatic spice notes. Fleshy but still stylish. A gorgeous wine. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU PÉTRUS Pomerol 2010 Score: 95-98
Still tightly wound, offering lots of briar, linzer torte and spice cake flavors, with a dark licorice snap note lacing up the finish. There's lots of grip to this, which is a more structured version of Merlot than a wine like the sleek, fruit-driven Le Pin. But shows a mouthwatering, pebbly feel that should unwind slowly over a long stretch of time. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LA CONSEILLANTE Pomerol 2010 Score: 94-97
Shows impressive power and purity, with waves of blueberry, fig and spice notes backed by black tea and graphite. Velvety and very long, this has some power in reserve, but it's really silky. A beauty. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU L'EVANGILE Pomerol 2010 Score: 94-97
Gorgeous raspberry ganache, fig and boysenberry fruit is liberally laced with fruitcake and graphite. Superracy, with linzer torte and red licorice taking over the finish. Very long, with lots going on here already. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

PROVIDENCE Pomerol 2010 Score: 94-97
Sleek, with a beautiful beam of red licorice and cassis. Long and supple, with a dense structure, but thoroughly integrated. There's lots in reserve, with lots of spice as well. Merlot with about 10 percent Cabernet Franc. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU BOURGNEUF Pomerol 2010 Score: 93-96
Delivers a core of anise and red licorice character, with solid grip and definition already and a long, fruit-filled finish. A powerful style of Pomerol. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LA GRAVE À POMEROL Pomerol 2010 Score: 93-96
Almost too easy, with a velvety feel and lush blackberry, blueberry and plum fruit. Shows lovely spice shadings, with a dash of anise. Very flattering, but stays focused all the way through. Thoroughly delicious. 100 percent Merlot. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU CLINET Pomerol 2010 Score: 92-95
Rich and fleshy, with a cocoa powder frame to the blueberry, raspberry and dark plum fruit. Long, with some muscle, yet stays graceful overall. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LE GAY Pomerol 2010 Score: 92-95
Rich but refined, with a pure core of raspberry, cherry and plum fruit. There's a gorgeous, silky feel through the finish. Very long. No heat here-it's all style. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU GAZIN Pomerol 2010 Score: 92-95
This sports some power, with dark fig, plum and blackberry fruit, but still stays silky, with perfumy black tea gliding in on the finish. A lacing of iron shows some strength as well. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR Pomerol Pensees de Lafleur 2010 Score: 92-95
Smells like cassis-dredged rosemary right now, with tangy cherry, raspberry and red currant fruit, followed by a long, tobacco- and savory-herb-filled finish. Very racy. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR-GAZIN Pomerol 2010 Score: 92-95
Juicy, with a muscular core of blackberry and fig. Lots of acidity is nicely buried on the smoke- and spice-filled finish, where a hint of plum skin lends an ever-so-slightly chewy edge. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LE MOULIN Pomerol 2010 Score: 92-95
Sleek and restrained, with a gorgeous mouthfeel, as silky tannins are already lengthy, carrying the spice, linzer torte, crushed cherry and red currant fruit. A classy wine. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU NENIN Pomerol 2010 Score: 92-95
Superfleshy but very direct, with long, racy raspberry ganache and red currant notes. Almost flashy, but stays focused through the long finish. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU PLINCE Pomerol 2010 Score: 91-94
Plump and juicy, with a friendly core of plum and blackberry character. Dark spice and anise notes chime in on the fleshy finish, and this sports a little punch. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LA POINTE Pomerol 2010 Score: 91-94
Muscular, with raspberry and plum sauce notes pushed by velvety but substantial tannins. The long finish is filled with roasted fig and spice. One of the bigger Pomerols in 2010. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LA VIOLETTE Pomerol 2010 Score: 91-94
Quite lush, with inviting cherry preserves, plum sauce and cassis character. Very silky and refined, with perfumy tea and incense notes. Long. —J.M.

CLOS DU CLOCHER Pomerol 2010 Score: 90-93
Dense and ripe, with layers of blackberry, plum and anise all carried by ample but velvety tannins. There's a long, nicely roasted finish. —J.M.

CLOS L'ÉGLISE Pomerol 2010 Score: 90-93
Dark and winey, with lots of cassis and blackberry notes and ample layers of velvety tannins and cocoa. A bit grippy on the finish, but plenty long. —J.M.

CLOS L'ÉGLISE Pomerol Esprit de L'Église 2010 Score: 90-93
Velvety plum sauce, fig and cassis fruit flavors are backed by a lightly firm edge of cocoa and tobacco. Almost chewy in the end, but with enough polish. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LA CROIX ST.-GEORGES Pomerol 2010 Score: 90-93
Rich, but very juicy, with lots of bittersweet ganache, cassis, linzer torte and dark spice notes driving from start to finish. The powerful finish has lots of flesh. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR DE GAY Pomerol 2010 Score: 90-93
Velvety from the start, with alluring mocha, raspberry, black tea and crushed plum notes. There's an alluring whiff of smoke on the finish. Builds and builds. Long. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU MONTVIEL Pomerol 2010 Score: 90-93
Very velvety, with dark plum, cassis and boysenberry fruit seamlessly melded together, with toasted spice and licorice notes hanging in the background. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU VIEUX MAILLET Pomerol 2010 Score: 90-93
Shows lovely crushed raspberry, cherry and plum fruit, with silky tannins and a perfumy finish. Very silky, with deceptive length. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU VRAY CROIX DE GAY Pomerol 2010 Score: 90-93
This is very forward, with plush tannins supporting the friendly plum, blackberry and boysenberry fruit. Shows nice length already, but there's enough in reserve too. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LE BON PASTEUR Pomerol 2010 Score: 89-92
Quite ripe, with slightly heady blueberry, fig paste and macerated currant fruit liberally laced with black tea, anise and toast. This has length, but verges on top-heavy. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU BONALGUE Pomerol 2010 Score: 89-92
Juicy, with a core of kirsch, plum and anise. The solid, toasty finish has a nice fleshy edge. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LA CABANNE Pomerol 2010 Score: 89-92
This has a large core of crushed plum and blackberry fruit, pushed by almost brisk acidity, with a racy, mouthwatering feel on the finish. There's some stuffing in reserve, so this should fill out a bit more. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU CLINET Pomerol Fleur de Clinet 2010 Score: 89-92
Lovely mocha, spice, blueberry and blackberry aromas and flavors lead to a long, velvety finish. Rich and caressing. Delightful. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LA CONSEILLANTE Pomerol Duo de Conseillante 2010 Score: 89-92
Shows enticing plum sauce, raspberry and blackberry fruit. There's sweet spice and toast on the finish, but not too overt. Solid length. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU FAYAT Pomerol 2010 Score: 89-92
Fleshy and rounded, with rather ripe cherry preserves and linzer torte notes, followed by a nicely rounded, sweet spice-tinged finish. This has lots of fruit. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU FRANC-MAILLET Pomerol Cuvée Jean Baptiste 2010 Score: 89-92
Shows the slight twinge of grip of the vintage, with a firm edge to the raspberry, plum skin and blackberry notes. It's also toasty, yet stretches out on the finish. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LE GAY Pomerol Manoir de Gay 2010 Score: 89-92
An open, flattering style, showing blueberry and raspberry fruit laced with licorice and sweet spice, with a rounded, accessible finish. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU MONREGARD LA CROIX Pomerol 2010 Score: 89-92
This is dense, with a slightly chewy edge to the dark plum, crushed black currant and roasted mesquite notes. Shows flashes of cocoa and tar on the finish. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU NENIN Pomerol Fugue de Nenin 2010 Score: 89-92
Very fresh and silky, with bright plum and raspberry fruit. Enticing and open, this is very tasty and not shy about its ripeness. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU PETIT-VILLAGE Pomerol 2010 Score: 89-92
Crushed plum, raspberry and cassis flavors glide along silky, refined tannins, with a suave finish that has a polished edge. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU DE SALES Pomerol 2010 Score: 89-92
Offers soft, pure, unadorned plum and raspberry fruit, with a lightly chalky minerality. Fleshes out nicely as it airs in the glass. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU LE CHEMIN Pomerol 2010 Score: 88-91
Quite toasty, with lots of overt red licorice, plum sauce and toasted fig bread notes. A hint of raisin lends a firm edge on the finish. There's more flash than length right now. —J.M.

LE CLOS DU BEAU-PÈRE Pomerol 2010 Score: 88-91
Bright and juicy, exhibiting a mix of pomegranate, cherry and raspberry fruit backed by judicious spice, with a velvety-edged finish. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-MAILLET Pomerol 2010 Score: 88-91
Dark and nicely packed, with lots of crushed fig, boysenberry and cassis notes. Shows some solid depth on the finish, with ample but velvety tannins and a dark spice element. —J.M.

CHÂTEAU PETIT-VILLAGE Pomerol Le Jardin 2010 Score: 88-91
Pure, silky raspberry and cherry preserve notes show a flash of black tea and spice, with an alluring, stylish finish. Very pretty. This is the second wine, made from young-vine parcels. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.
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