O crítico James Molesworth (Wine Spectator) está em Bordeaux fazendo as provas de barril dos vinhos da safra 2010, para determinar o caráter e a qualidade dos vinhos que, em breve, estarão disponíveis para a venda "en primeur". Como neste mercado quem compra primeiro os vinhos certos vai lucrar mais (e pagar menos), é muito interessante conhecer estas impressões iniciais, mesmo para os "pobres mortais" que queiram comprar apenas algumas garrafas isoladas.
A lista integral, com mais de 400 vinhos avaliados, foi dividida em "appellations" e está sendo publicada gradativamente. Anote os seus vinhos preferidos em qualidade e preço, para que, se tiver chance, possa adquirir algumas garrafas para beber no futuro.
Para quem já viu o vídeo que publiquei com as impressões de Steven Spurrier (Decanter), estes devem ser os Bordeaux mais concentrados da história...
PESSAC-LÉOGNAN E GRAVES
CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 96-99
Sappy, dense and packed, with layers of kirsch, melted licorice snap, anise and black tea. Just as dense, if not more so, on the finish, with extra tar, violet and blackberry confiture. There's massive grip on the back end, but this is velvety and caressing. Easily the most backward of the first-growths at this stage. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 95-98
This is loaded, with a torrent of pastis, crushed plum, blueberry and boysenberry fruit, backed by tarry tannins and a long, spice- and graphite-filled finish. Big, but very, very sleek. Highest percentage of Cabernet ever for La Mission (62 percent). Tasted non-blind. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION Pessac-Léognan Le Clarence 2010 Score: 93-96
This is juicy and still compact, with a big core of plum sauce, pastis and graphite, followed by lots of kirsch and sweet spice on the finish. Still needs to unwind. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU PAPE CLÉMENT Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 93-96
A flashy, modern style, with lots of dark fig, anise and graphite notes, pushed by more black currant sauce and tar. Ample toast runs through the finish, but this has plenty of raw material. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU SMITH-HAUT-LAFITTE Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 93-96
Really ripe, but with great focus, as linzer torte, blackberry, plum sauce and anise notes are woven tightly together, all carried by tar and graphite, with a long, seamless finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU BRANON Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 92-95
Really juicy and racy, with a great graphite spine supporting the dark linzer torte, boysenberry and blackberry fruit. Very fresh and long, with a tarry note hanging on nicely. —J.M.
DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 92-95
This is loaded, with layers of gorgeous plum sauce, linzer torte and blackberry fruit melding beautifully with charcoal, spice and anise. The long, dark finish has some power in reserve, but it's rounded and enticing. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGEY Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 92-95
Seriously ripe, with dense, succulent plum and black currant fruit paste notes, laced with extra spice, anise and tar. This has great drive and cut, and is still a bit compact. Seems set for the longer haul. A seriously good showing for this estate. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION Pessac-Léognan La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 2010 Score: 92-95
Offers a very sleek, seamless feel, with a rush of violet and pastis notes and a dense, sappy, plum-filled finish. Not as overtly bright as many other 2010s, but you know the freshness is there since this is big yet light on its feet. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU BROWN Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 91-94
Deliciously juicy and engaging, with aromas and flavors of currant, cherry and blackberry preserves, filled in with hints of spice and fig bread. A lightly tarry edge frames the finish. Jean-Christophe Mau is doing really good work here. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU MALARTIC-LAGRAVIÈRE Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 91-94
A broad swath of damson plum, blackberry and anise rolls along, followed by spice, black tea and black licorice notes on the dense finish. Serious grip is buried here as well. —J.M.
CLOS FLORIDÈNE Graves 2010 Score: 90-93
This focused red delivers a pure beam of cherry and red currant fruit easily holding sway over mineral and sweet tobacco notes, with a very pure, fresh finish and lovely mouthfeel. —J.M.
CLOS MARSALETTE Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 90-93
Ebullient plum and blackberry fruit is pumped with lots of roasted spice and braised fig notes. This has a lashing of sweet toast on the finish, but the stuffing is there to soak it up. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DE CRUZEAU Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 90-93
Velvety from the start, with delicious plum sauce and blackberry fruit carried by black tea and melted licorice notes. Flashes of hot stone and tobacco keep it honest on the finish. Shows nice range. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DE FIEUZAL Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 90-93
Sappy and intense, with kirsch and crushed raspberry fruit aromas and flavors and superfresh acidity driving underneath. Features lots of spice and violet notes on the finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LESPAULT-MARTILLAC Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 90-93
Deliciously ripe and open, with layers of plum, fig and boysenberry. Then the grip slides in on the finish, with licorice and dark tobacco-tinged tannins that give nice cut. Rock-solid. Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier has made a quick turnaround here. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LA LOUVIÈRE Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 90-93
Dark and winey, with lots of crushed plum, anise and black currant nicely melded with dark tobacco and cocoa notes. This has some toast to soak up, but there's ample flesh. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU PAPE CLÉMENT Pessac-Léognan Clémentin du Pape Clément 2010 Score: 90-93
A dark, winey style, with macerated black currant and fig notes and a tongue-coating note of tar and espresso. Stays fresh, despite its weight, with a long, black fruit-filled finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LE THIL Pessac-Léognan Comte Clary 2010 Score: 90-93
An attention-getter, with supervivid raspberry and blueberry fruit coursing along a racy graphite edge. There's solid flesh, but this is really lengthy and driven. A major turnaround going on at this estate. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU CANTELYS Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 89-92
This has a big core of modern-styled, juicy plum and blackberry fruit, with ample spice and maduro tobacco notes. A firm, lightly tarry edge helps focus the finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU CARBONNIEUX Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 89-92
Very pure, with a lovely, supple feel to the structure and long, unadorned red currant, raspberry and cherry fruit that sails along. Shows flickers of warm stone and spice on the finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DE CHANTEGRIVE Graves 2010 Score: 89-92
Very ripe, but very fresh, with juicy plum and raspberry fruit that has nice cut and length, while enticing spice and licorice fills in the background. There's solid grip on the finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU GAZIN ROCQUENCOURT Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 89-92
Very sleek and inviting, with delicious red plum, raspberry and black cherry fruit. Subtle toast is nicely woven, and there's a tangy flash of iron on the finish. Very fresh. A new estate to watch from Jean-Jacques Bonnie of Malartic-Lagravière. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU HAURA Graves 2010 Score: 89-92
Nicely focused, with raspberry and plum notes laced with a hint of cherry pit. Tobacco and mineral are starting to show on the polished finish, which has nice length. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGEY Pessac-Léognan L'Étoile de Bergey 2010 Score: 89-92
This is intriguing, with a flash of mesquite up front, followed by tangy damson plum, ripe linzer torte and lush blackberry notes all mingling though the anise- and tar-filled finish. A very solid second wine. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LATOUR-MARTILLAC Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 89-92
Quite ripe, with lots of plum, blackberry and blueberry fruit. Ample toast lends a slightly firm, compact feel on the finish for now, but the length and depth is there. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU SMITH-HAUT-LAFITTE Pessac-Léognan Les Hauts de Smith 2010 Score: 89-92
Fresh, pure plum and blackberry fruit is lightly kissed with mocha and licorice, and a hint of tar adds some length and pleasant grip on the finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LA GARDE Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 88-91
Solid, with a juicy core of crushed plum, cherry and blackberry laced with nicely integrated toast and spice. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU OLIVIER Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 88-91
Plush and inviting, with rounded plum, raspberry and cherry notes backed by perfumy spice and tea. A hint of warm stone runs through the finish. Solid. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU COUHINS-LURTON Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 87-90
Soft, with a light raisiny edge to the blackberry and cherry pie notes, followed by a rounded, toasty finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU FERRAN Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 87-90
Soft and open, with a floral note leading the way for cherry, crushed strawberry and raspberry flavors, followed by a rounded, supple finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU FLEUR LA MOTHE Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 87-90
A fresh, open style, with friendly cherry sauce and red licorice notes and a light toasty, dusty finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DE ROCHEMORIN Pessac-Léognan 2010 Score: 87-90
Exhibits dark, winey aromas, with overt anise and plum sauce aromas and flavors backed by dark charcoal and roasted vanilla notes. There's more on the end than in the middle right now. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU VILLA BEL-AIR Graves 2010 Score: 87-90
This ripe red shows alluring mocha and linzer torte notes and lots of silky crushed plum and cherry sauce flavors, with a dark, spicy finish. Should be a crowd-pleaser. —J.M.