O crítico James Molesworth (Wine Spectator) está em Bordeaux fazendo as provas de barril dos vinhos da safra 2010 para determinar o caráter e a qualidade dos vinhos que, em breve, estarão disponíveis para a venda "en primeur". Como neste mercado quem compra primeiro os vinhos certos vai lucrar mais (e pagar menos), é muito interessante conhecer estas impressões iniciais, mesmo para os "pobres mortais" que queiram comprar apenas algumas garrafas isoladas.
A lista integral, com mais de 400 vinhos avaliados, foi dividida em "appellations" e será publicada gradativamente. Anote os seus vinhos preferidos em qualidade e preço, para que, se tiver chance, possa adquirir algumas para beber no futuro.
Para quem já viu o vídeo que publiquei com as impressões de Steven Spurrier (Decanter), estes devem ser os Bordeaux mais concentrados da história...
CHÂTEAU MARGAUX Margaux 2010 Score: 96-99
Superfocused and superracy, with torrents of cherry, raspberry and plum fruit. Offering terrific mouthfeel, this glides by effortlessly, with a fantastic perfume developing on the finish. Long and iron-tinged. Really, really fine-grained. Other than 2006, this is the only vintage since 2000 with as much Cabernet Sauvignon (90 percent). Tasted non-blind. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU PALMER Margaux 2010 Score: 95-98
This dense red offers a big core of currant, plum and cassis, with lots of buried violet and anise. Really loaded on the back end, this is very muscular, but still velvety. Features saturated fruit on the finish, but stays restrained. Should be very long-lived. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SÉGLA Margaux 2010 Score: 94-97
This is a step ahead of the pack, thanks to its dense, sappy core of kirsch, blackberry and plum sauce that's offset by mouthwatering acidity and a long iron note on the finish. This has weight, but stays velvety and pure, with impressive length. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU MALESCOT-ST.-EXUPÉRY Margaux 2010 Score: 93-96
Fresh and lively, with lots of prominent but silky tannins carrying the mouthwatering plum, red currant and black cherry fruit. Rock-solid, with great buried acidity and a long, vivid finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU MARGAUX Margaux Pavillon Rouge 2010 Score: 92-95
Rather dense and muscular, with a broad range of red and black fruits, roasted apple wood and red licorice flavors. Features an iron-packed finish, but with a velvety coating. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.
MAROJALLIA Margaux 2010 Score: 92-95
Almost viscous in its richness, with dark crushed plum, anise and blackberry notes and loads of velvety tannins on the briar- and black tea-tinged finish. This has some depth and muscle. An unabashedly modern style. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU PALMER Margaux Alter Ego 2010 Score: 92-95
Velvety and inviting, with lovely dark plum and blackberry fruit, followed by a long, caressing finish. This has some grip too, but it's nicely integrated. Should have some staying power. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU MARQUIS D'ALESME BECKER Margaux 2010 Score: 91-94
A dark, winey style, with thickly layered crushed fig, currant paste and blackberry confiture notes wrapped with loads of graphite and roasted spice. The long finish has lots of grip. Well-packed. A strong showing. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU CANTENAC-BROWN Margaux 2010 Score: 91-94
Very focused, with a taut beam of red currant and crushed damson plum fruit, backed by very fine-grained, supple tannins. A twinge of iron weaves through the increasingly fleshy finish. This has power, but also lots of finesse. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU GISCOURS Margaux 2010 Score: 91-94
Polished, with lots of alluring mocha and licorice notes leading the way, followed by creamy blueberry, blackberry and black cherry fruit. The finish is long and creamy. —J.M.
MAROJALLIA Margaux Clos Margalaine 2010 Score: 91-94
Already shows a lot of minerality, with a strong pebbly undertow to the blackberry, currant and crushed fig notes. Juicy acidity is buried deeply, with cocoa-dusted flesh covering the finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU MARQUIS DE TERME Margaux 2010 Score: 91-94
This is tangy, with iron-driven cut through the core of lush plum, blackberry and cassis fruit. Long and silky, with nice latent depth. Really opens up. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE DE TAYAC Margaux 2010 Score: 90-93
A lovely red, with pure plum and cassis fruit, a lilting lilac and rose petal perfume and a supple, seamless finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU BOYD-CANTENAC Margaux 2010 Score: 90-93
Very ripe, but with superfresh acidity to keep the lush plum, raspberry and black currant notes fresh, while melted licorice and a long, violet-filled finish come in behind. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC Margaux 2010 Score: 90-93
A fresh, floral style, with violet and rose aromas followed by a mix of vibrant red currant and blackberry fruit. The dusty finish has good underlying acidity, keeping it racy. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DAUZAC Margaux 2010 Score: 90-93
A bright, pure, unadorned style, with lovely red currant, raspberry and blackberry fruit laced with ample violet and perfumy spice notes. The long, silky finish has nice latent grip. Delightful. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DURFORT-VIVENS Margaux 2010 Score: 90-93
Sappy and intense, with a tongue-coating feel to the crushed plum and cherry preserve notes. Long and silky through the finish, with black tea and iron lurking. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU KIRWAN Margaux 2010 Score: 90-93
Ripe and very juicy, but with lovely seamless texture to the plum, cassis and violet notes. The long, racy finish is really persistent. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LABÉGORCE Margaux 2010 Score: 90-93
A dark, plummy, richly fruited style, with black currant, warm fig sauce and dark currant character wrapped with lush dark cocoa and espresso notes, followed by a big, toasty finish. Shows more width than length right now, but there's plenty of stuffing. Should stretch out more. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU MONBRISON Margaux 2010 Score: 90-93
A bright, floral style, with violet and singed iron notes up front, followed by silky-textured red currant, black cherry and damson plum fruit. An iron note frames he finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SÉGLA Margaux Ségla 2010 Score: 90-93
Still a touch taut, but focused, with bitter cherry and red licorice notes, followed by a flash of iron on the finish. Tasted non-blind. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU SIRAN Margaux 2010 Score: 90-93
Showing nice minerality already, with a stony hint weaving through the supple plum and cassis fruit, followed by a perfumy finish. Should be very suave when finished. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU DU TERTRE Margaux 2010 Score: 90-93
This is textbook Margaux, with a supple, velvety feel and a stylish core of plum, red currant and black cherry fruit laced with perfumy spice and followed by lightly dusty tannins. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC Margaux Baron de Brane 2010 Score: 89-92
Bright and intensely floral, with a lovely violet aroma and long, rich plum sauce, blackberry and currant notes. There's lush toast, but it's nicely integrated. Very suave. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU FERRIÈRE Margaux 2010 Score: 89-92
This delivers a solid beam of raspberry and cassis, with graphite and spice notes. Lightly firm through the finish, with dusty tannins hanging on the end. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU D'ISSAN Margaux 2010 Score: 89-92
A juicy, ripe, forward style, with lots of kirsch and blackberry notes filled in with apple, sweet spice and red licorice, followed by a juicy finish. Not quite as vivid as the top examples, but solid. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LASCOMBES Margaux 2010 Score: 89-92
Slightly jammy, with a ripe, forward profile of plum, prune, blackberry and black cherry backed by an ample dose of dark licorice on the slightly raisiny finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU POUGET Margaux 2010 Score: 89-92
A bright, up-front style, with a core of bouncy linzer torte, cassis and cherry preserves pushed by licorice and spice. Not superlong, but stays fresh enough. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU PRIEURÉ-LICHINE Margaux 2010 Score: 89-92
An amped-up style, with dark, weighty, frankly toasty layers of blackberry, plum and currant fruit giving way to black licorice on the finish. Offers more raw power than finesse and relies on toast more than acidity, but this is a solid example of the style. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LA TOUR DE MONS Margaux 2010 Score: 89-92
Exuberant, with lots of violet, anise and raspberry notes that show good cut and drive. The finish is toasty, but this should soak that up. Solid. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-GASSIES Margaux 2010 Score: 88-91
Silky and stylish, with alluring spice and black tea notes leading the way for a rich core of crushed plum and boysenberry fruit. The finish is long and supple. —J.M.
CONFIDENCE Margaux 2010 Score: 87-90
A touch jammy and forward, with lightly sweet linzer torte and crushed cherry notes pushed by slightly perky acidity that hasn't quite meshed yet. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU D'ISSAN Margaux Blason d'Issan 2010 Score: 87-90
A floral, perfumy style, with a range of red fruit-currant, cherry and raspberry-laced with pretty spice notes on the finish. —J.M.
CHÂTEAU LASCOMBES Margaux Chevalier de Lascombes 2010 Score: 87-90
A rather ripe, modern style, with a big ball of red and black licorice leading the way for dark linzer torte and plum sauce notes. A bit obvious on the finish, with a strong toasty edge. —J.M.
A seguir: Pauillac