terça-feira, 21 de setembro de 2010

Vinhos perfeitos! 100 pontos Parker (Safra 2002): Comentários de degustação - 2ª parte

Segue a 2ª parte da lista de vinhos "perfeitos" (os 6 restantes) de 2002. Acrescentei imagens das garrafas/rótulos dos vinhos aos comentários de degustação e informações detalhadas de Parker (nunca se sabe quando vamos ficar frente a frente com algum deles...):

2002 Hermann Donnhoff Riesling Eiswein Oberhauser Brucke

Oberhausen, Pfalz, Germany
Wine Advocate # 151 Feb 2004 Pierre Rovani 100 Drink: 2015 - 2040 $249 (249)
The 2002 Riesling Eiswein Oberhauser Brucke is a grand slam home run for Donnhoff. It is so intense, so powerful, and so complex as to instill fear in the taster. Its apricot and peach cobbler aromas lead to a jellied core of cassis, raspberries, syrupy slate, and oodles of spices. It is simply amazing that a wine of this richness, ripeness, and depth can retain perfect definition, grip, and refinement. What is truly terrifying, however, is that Donnhoff produced a three-star Eiswein from the same vineyard in 2002, one he presumably considers better than this sublime nectar. Part of me is grateful that I was unable to taste it, however, as I have only 100 points with which to work. Bravo! Projected maturity: 2015-2040+.
For the second year in a row, Helmut Donnhoff has left me shaking my head in wonder. Having tasted the greatest wines in the world, year in and year out, as a wine merchant and as a critic, did not prepare me for the awe-inspiring experience of tasting through Donnhoff’s 2001s and 2002s. They are magical, emotional, breath-taking. My words cannot do them justice.

2002 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard

Oakville, Napa, North Coast, California, USA
Wine Advocate # 157 Feb 2005 Robert Parker 100 Drink: 2010 - 2030 $450-$1292
The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard is one of the greatest young Cabernets I have tasted from California. Believe it or not, it reminds me of the way the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild tasted at age two or three. It is a classic from the tenderloin of Napa Valley – the Oakville corridor. This 650-case cuvee has a dense purple color to the rim and an extraordinary nose of cedar, licorice, spice box, and gobs of creme de cassis liqueur-like notes. The wine has tremendous opulence, massive body, but unbelievable intensity, balance, and overall harmony. There is considerable tannin and acidity that offers vibrancy and delineation, but all this is seamlessly integrated into this modern-day classic. This is a fabulous wine made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in 100% new oak, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030. This wine requires patience.

2002 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon

Washington, USA
Wine Advocate # 164 Apr 2006 Pierre Rovani 100 Drink: 2006 - 2022 $300-$399 (90)
Unlike some minuscule production “cult” wines or luxury cuvees culled from a winery’s primary product that have earned perfect scores over the years, Quilceda Creek’s Cabernet Sauvignon is the winery’s raison d’etre and is produced in significant quantities (3,400 cases in 2002, 3,425 in 2003). For accomplishing this feat the Golitzens should be doubly proud. Dark ruby-colored and sporting a nose of violets, sweet blueberries, dark cherries, and slight undertones of asphalt, the 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon blossoms on the palate to expose a wine of ethereal delicacy yet immense power. Medium to full-bodied, it expands to reveal concentrated layers of cassis, blackberries, red cherries, raspberries, violets, spices, and touches of candied plums. This rich, exquisitely balanced, sweet, and broad wine is harmonious, graceful, and awesomely long. Projected maturity: now-2022. Congratulations Alex and Paul, welcome to the big leagues.

2002 Shafer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select

Stag's Leap District, Napa, North Coast, California, USA
Wine Advocate # 168 Dec 2006 Robert Parker 100 Drink: 2006 - 2036 $389-$540 (175)
One of the world’s most extraordinary Cabernet Sauvignons is the 1,800-2,400-case offering of Shafer’s Hillside Select. It was a treat to re-taste the utterly perfect 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select. A dark purple color is accompanied by a gorgeously powerful nose of pure creme de cassis, pain grille, flowers, licorice, and spice box. Full-bodied with multiple dimensions, superb purity, layers of fruit, and a blockbuster finish, it is an amazing offering. This wine should drink well young yet evolve for 2-3 decades.

2002 Sine Qua Non Just For The Love Of It (Syrah)

Central Coast, California, USA
Wine Advocate # 154 Aug 2004 Robert Parker 100 Drink: 2004 - 2019 $565-$1624 (95)
A dead-ringer (at least aromatically) for Guigal’s single vineyard Cote Rotie La Mouline, the 2002 Just For The Love of It is the greatest California Syrah I have yet tasted. A one-thousand case blend of 96% Syrah, 2% Grenache, and 2% Viognier, it is nearly equal parts Alban, Bien Nacido, and Stolpman fruit with a small amount from both Shadow Canyon and White Hawk. It boasts a provocative perfume of creme de cassis, toast, blackberries, licorice, barbecue spice, and exotic floral scents. Extremely full-bodied, with fabulous intensity, great purity, awesome length, and a finish that lasts over a minute, this classic is a must purchase. Already accessible, it will drink well for 10-15 years.

2002 Sloan Proprietary Red

Napa, North Coast, California, USA
Wine Advocate # 162
Dec 2005 Robert Parker 100 Drink: 2008 - 2020 $589-$1250 (245)
The 2002 is indeed one of the greatest Cabernet Sauvignons I have ever tasted from California. Boasting enormous concentration, extraordinary complexity (roasted coffee notes intermixed with blueberry, blackberry, jus de viande, subtle smoky oak, and a wealth of spice), it possesses terrific fruit, extraordinary intensity, and an amazingly pure, rich, long (over 50 seconds), blockbuster finish. This brilliant, uncompromising expression of Cabernet Sauvignon clearly demonstrates this vineyard’s potential as well as the enormous, multi-million-dollar effort Stuart Sloan has put into both the winery and the vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020+.
Talk about coming out with a Big Bang! Stuart Sloan, the Seattle businessman, has hit both gold and home runs with his extraordinary vineyard perched high on a hill above the renowned restaurant/hotel complex of Auberge du Soleil. A 60-acre estate only partially planted in vines, with David Abreu handling the viticulture and Martha Levy (wife of Harlan Estates’ Bob Levy) making the wine, this is as impressive a new operation as I have ever witnessed.

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