terça-feira, 7 de setembro de 2010

100 Vinhos para beber antes de morrer! Borgonha (Decanter Magazine)

Continuando a lista elaborada por Masters of Wine para a revista Decanter, seguem os vinhos memoráveis da Borgonha, uma região difícil de desvendar, cheia de segredos, normalmente muito caros, mas repleta de grandes vinhos:

Meursault 1er Cru, Genevrieres, Domaine Leroy 1981
Its Montrachet may be the pièce de resistance at Lafon, but the Meursault is its standard-bearer. £180
Musigny, Vieilles Vignes, Comte Georges de Vogue 1993
A sublime example of silky, powerful, intense grand cru Burgundy,' says Nick Adams MW. 'It is just emerging from its shell and expressing its terroir and sheer class.'
Romanee-Conti, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti 1921
If the 1966 was an indulgent choice, the 1921 is the stuff of dreams. Along with the 1945, 1978, 1985... 'A mind-blowing, extraordinary taste of bewitching spices - heady concentration and opulence on a solid base,' says Serena Sutcliffe. 'Unequalled - I can taste it now.'
Musigny, Joseph Drouhin 1978
Nick Adams MW remembers enjoying a jeroboam from the domaine's own cellars four years ago. 'Beautifully mature and expressive, this was a true expression of the silky gaminess which ultra-fine, old Burgundy can produce,' he says. 'Every aspect of the wine was in total harmony.' £350
Montrachet, Domaine Ramonet 1993
Ramonet is an artisan domaine, with a reputation for doing things by instinct, so sometimes bottles can be of uneven quality. When they're good, though, they're seriously good, as with the 1993 Montrachet. 'The nose is smoky, minerally and very complex,' says sommelier Ronan Sayburn. 'The palate remains very elegant and fine with an amazing rush of nuts, caramel and citrus fruit on the finish.' £1000
Romanee-Conti, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti 1966
If the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti appellation is the central pearl of the Cote de Nuits necklace, the Romanée-Conti vinyeard makes up the diamond encrusting. The 1966 is a wine of 'pure strawberry fruit and aromas... poetry in a bottle', says Ch'ng Poh Tiong. 'The most unforgettable wine I've ever had.' Only 7000 bottles were made. £11,000 (case of 12)
La Tache, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti 1990
Steven Spurrier's favourite wine of all time. 'Still deep in colour, floral in aromas, velvety and enveloping on the palate,' he says. 'More than a work of art, it is a work of nature brought to life by the dedication of man - the purest expression possible of its soil.' £3000 (case of 12)
Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Denis Bachelet 1988
This tiny estate produces softer wines than its Chambertin neighbours. Its hallmarks, as exhibited in the 1988, are finesse, class and perfume. £60
Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive 1996
To many connoisseurs, Leflaive is Puligny-Montrachet. But if is for its Le Montrachet that it makes our list. Clive Coates MW, Mr Cote d'Or himself, simply says that it is a wine one should drink 'on bended knee with heartfelt and humble thanks'. £120
Bonnes-Mares, Domaine Georges Roumier 1996
'If these are desert islands wines, this is for the days when Friday catches a wild pig,' says Giles MacDonogh of this Cote de Nuits gem. £165
Montrachet, Domaine Comtes Lafon 1966
Owned by Réné Lafon, there exists a mere third of a hectare in the Le Montrachet 'climat' here, but it is enough to make a deeply intense, fat wine, none more so than the 1966, a stunning Burgundy vintage. £500
Chablis Grand Cru, la Moutonne, Domaine Long-Depaquit 1990
This is everything that fine, mature Chablis should be. 'A wonderful combination of mineral fruit and flinty acidity,' says Rosemary George MW. 'Beautifully balanced and mature, but still with potential for future development.' £30
Chablis Grand Cru, les Clos, Domaine Dauvissat 1990
Rene and Vincent Dauvissat's wines have a reputation for ageing superbly. In doing so, reckons Robert Parker, 'they exhibit a marriage of fruit and spicy vanilla oak that is glorious to experience'. A toss-up between this and the 1996. £50
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Robert Arnoux 1929
Robert Arnoux owns a 0.4ha parcel of Clos de Vougeot's 50ha grand cru vineyard and produced this legendary tipple 75 years ago. 'Vibrant cherry colour, strawberries and raspberries still surviving on the palate - I could not believe the wine was so old,' says top sommelier Ronan Sayburn.
La Tache, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti 1966
Len Evans concendes that Steven Spurrier's beloved 1990 La Tache 'may one day be better', but maintains that for drinking now, it's difficult to beat the 1966. 'Just exquisite - incredible nose, length and strength, power with harmony and finesse.' The 1972 and 1978 were also mooted. £3740 (case of 12)
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